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Since the recent rains, there have been more visible fire ant mounds in
area landscapes. Fire ant mounds are not only unsightly, but these
ants are medically important. They are aggressive and tend to come out
of their colony by the thousands when disturbed. This causes us to
have no choice, but to use control methods for these ants!
Before chemically treating for fire ants, one must first survey the area
to determine the number of mounds. If less than 5 mounds are present
in a quarter acre plot, then it is advised to treat the individual mounds.
The individual mound treatment is the fastest way to get rid of the fire ant
mounds, but it is more labor intensive and more costly to apply when
compared to the broadcast baits.
If more than 5 mounds are present, then treatments should be broadcasted
over the entire area. A fire ant bait or granular insecticide may be
used. Fire ant baits are made up of defatted corn grit covered with
insecticide and soybean oil. Before broadcasting the fire ant bait,
foraging activity should be assessed. In order to test for foraging
activity, place a potato chip or hot dog next to the mound. If fire
ants find the chip or hot dog within about twenty minutes, then the bait
should be broadcasted. Fire ants will typically actively forage when
the soil surface temperature is between 70 and 90° F. The delivery
process of baits into the colony is so effective, that the amount of
insecticide applied in an area is significantly reduced. Fire ant
baits should never be watered into the soil and they should not be used if
they smell rancid. Also, granular insecticides can be broadcasted over
the entire area and need to be watered into the soil. Granular
insecticides will usually provide 6 to 12 months of control.
Both fire ant baits and contact insecticides can be broadcast using a
hand-held spreader for small areas or a Herd Seeder can be mounted onto a
truck or ATV for larger areas.
Before applying any type of pesticide, always be sure to read and
follow the pesticide label. Never use harmful toxins, such as gasoline
to control fire ants. These products are illegal and dangerous.
Also, never leave insecticide baits on streets or walkways after
application, in order to avoid unnecessary entrance into the water supply.
For more information, please visit the fire ant webpage at
http://fireant.tamu.edu.
Red imported fire ant worker. Photo by
Bart Drees,
Texas A&M University.
Egg, larval stages, pupa and adult fire
ant worker. Photo by
Bart Drees, Texas
A&M University.
During late April and in May, we begin to see the adult May and June
beetles (Phyllophaga spp.) flying around lights or onto window screens
usually at night. The female May beetle will deposit eggs into the
turf in April-May; where as the June beetle will deposit eggs in May-June.
The eggs will hatch into grub worms that are creamy white in color with
brown heads and are “c-shaped.” The grubs feed on dead organic matter and
then move to the roots of plants. Since the grubs feed on roots, they can
injure roots of grasses and other plants. This causes infested turf to brown
and easy to remove in large clumps.
Before treating for grub worms, lawns should be inspected to determine
the presence of an infestation. In order to inspect an area, soil
sections 3 to 4 inches deep should be taken randomly to total one square
foot for every 1000 square feet of infested area. One square foot of
turf can be sampled by removing four, 6 inch square pieces of turf or ten, 4
inch cup cutter core samples. If more than 5 white grubs are found
within this square foot, then treatment should be applied. The optimal
time for inspection and treatment should be 5 to 6 weeks after the most
beetles are seen. This will ensure that smaller grub worms (less than ½
inches) will be found in the turf.
Insecticides should only be applied if a grub worm infestation exists in
your lawn, since unnecessary use of insecticides can cause insect resistance
and harm to beneficial organisms.
Some Control Options:
Non-chemical control options:
Maintain healthy turf by fertilizing and watering properly.
Try not to plant preferred trees in the landscape, such as oak or pecan
trees, in order to prevent possible defoliation of these trees.
Parasitic nematodes in the genera Steinernema and Heterorhabtitis have
been shown to be effective against white grubs. They can be purchased and
applied to infested areas.
Chemical Control Options:
Imidacloprid, halofenozide, and clothianidin are some chemical options
that are often applied before extensive grub worm damage is seen, since they
are effective on smaller grub worms. Lambda-cyhalothrin and
trichlorfon are some examples of chemicals used after grub worms are present
as a curative control. Also there are combinations of chemicals such
as imidacloprid and bifenthrin that can be used for a preventative and
curative control option.
Irrigating the soil with ¼ to ½ inches of water prior to treatment can
improve the effectiveness of the insecticides, since the grubs will move
closer to the soil surface.
Grub worm from Phyllophaga spp. Photo
by:
Texas A&M Cooperative Extension.
Due to the recent rains and warmer temperatures, we have another flying
insect joining us outside, the mosquito. Mosquitoes are a diverse
group of flies, and there are over 85 species in Texas.
Mosquitoes develop through a complete lifecycle with an egg, larva, pupa
and adult stage. Mosquito eggs may be laid individually or in clusters
on the surface of water or in dry locations that will flood periodically.
The eggs hatch into larvae that eat microscopic plants, animals and other
organic material in the water. The larvae will then develop into pupae,
which do not feed. Then the adult stage will emerge from the water and
take flight.
Adult male and female mosquitoes will feed on nectar, honeydew and fruit
juices. The female mosquito will also consume blood in order to develop her
eggs. This causes the female mosquito to be considered one of the biggest
medical threats to humans, since they are capable of transmitting many
diseases, such as West Nile Virus, Malaria, Eastern Equine Encephalitis, and
Yellow Fever.
Some Options For Controlling Mosquito Populations Outdoors:
1) The number one way to reduce mosquito populations in your yard is
source reduction!!! Mosquitoes need as little as a bottle cap
full of water in order to complete their lifecycle. If standing water
is eliminated in your backyard, then the overall mosquito population in your
area will be reduced.
A)
Areas containing water should be changed
once a week or emptied, such as wading
pools, buckets, bird baths, pet dishes,
ponds, boat covers, and irrigation
systems.
B)
Holes or depressions in trees should be
filled with sand or mortar.
C)
Leaky pipes should be repaired.
D) If
standing water can not be drained, then
mosquito dunks containing Bacillus
thuringiensis israelensis (Bti) can be
used.
2) Mow tall grass and reduce the
amount of foliage to reduce the resting
sites for adult mosquitoes.
3) Insecticides can be applied to
trees and shrubs, such as those
containing pyrethrins, to kill adult
mosquitoes.
Some options to prevent
mosquito bites:
1) Avoid wearing dark colors, since
mosquitoes rely on visual cues to locate
hosts.
2) Avoid exercising or yard work in the heat of the day, since mosquitoes
are attracted to carbon dioxide and perspiration.
3) Avoid wearing fruity or floral fragrances in perfumes, hair products,
or sunscreens, since these scents are more attractive to mosquitoes.
4) Wear long, loose-fitting clothing to avoid mosquito bites.
55) Chemicals can be applied to the skin and clothes to prevent bites.
There are many mosquito repellents on the market such as those containing
DEET, picaridin, oil of eucalyptus, and soybean oil-based repellents.
Asian tiger mosquito, Aedes
albopictus (Skuse)
(Diptera: Culicidae). Photo by Dr. Bart
Drees,
Professor and Extension Entomologist.
Swarms of bees occur most commonly during the early spring when new
queens decide to form a new nest site. These bee swarms are less likely to
be aggressive so we usually do not have to worry about stinging.
However, the problem with swarms is the lack of acceptance in urban
neighborhoods. These swarms cause uproars in urban areas if the nest
settles in a backyard tree or on a porch. Also if they find a way to
invade your house and take up residence in walls or attics, it could lead to
a pretty expensive treatment tab. If swarms invade the home, the nest
will have to be removed (preferably by a professional), usually at a hefty
cost. If nests are not removed, the wax, honey and dead bees may produce
odors that can attract other pests such as mice, ants or cockroaches.
Some people prefer to leave their
wild bee swarms alone. However if
you wish to take action, the safest
course in urban areas is to hire a
beekeeper to remove the swarm or hire a
professional to eliminate it before they
discover a way into your home.
For more information, please check out Dr. Mike Merchant’s City Bugs
website at:
http://citybugs.tamu.edu/IntheNews_Details.asp?ID_Key=441.
Mention of
commercial products is for educational
purposes only and does not represent
endorsement by Texas AgriLife Extension
or The Texas A&M University System. Insecticide label registrations are
subject to change, and changes may have occurred since this publication was
printed. The pesticide user is always responsible for applying products in
accordance with label directions. Always read and carefully follow the
instructions on the container label.
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